Admiral Y6071

[45066OH]

I was asked to sell this Admiral Record / FM AM Radio cabinet, but I have no idea what it's worth? The whole piece is the original finish, it works; The only issue is there is no sound coming out of the left channel. I'm thinking it's an easy fix for the right person. Any input would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/j5q4lhkm ... 86h1t&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/myf83o71 ... r4dc8&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/enppzm90 ... yitq1&dl=0

[electra225]

I fixed one exactly like that one for a customer one time. Had a 50HC6/50HK6 single-ended audio, good for about 3 watts a channel.

Unfortunately, if you get $50 for a stereo that needs work, you are doing well. Where are you going to get it worked on? The only people who do that kind of work are hobbyists like the guys here on the forum, unless you get really lucky. You can't go to a "stereo shop" or a TV repair place and get it worked on. The good thing about this one is that it is a tube unit, which is both more desirable and more easily repaired than a solid state model would be. That stereo is mostly sizzle, with very little steak. A huge, over 6' in length cabinet, IIRC, which is mostly empty, populated by entry-level electronics. Console stereos are a tough sell to the general public, due to their size and their "old" electronics. We collect and preserve them here on the forum, but we are definitely in the minority. The high-end models from Magnavox, Fisher, Zenith, RCA, Voice of Music sell better than the lower-end models. Cabinet style has a lot to do with desirability as well.

The best way to get your money out of this would be to repair it yourself and enjoy it. There is no tape input on that as I remember. It would take some wiring, but you could put a Bluetooth setup on it and enjoy it that way. It has a Voice of Music changer, which are easily repaired and are dependable workhorses. We can advise where to find needles and whatever else you may need to get it up and singing again. Good luck and welcome to the forum!!

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

Greg is correct on all counts re: value.

I'm not 100% sure if that is a V-M record changer.
It might be one of their cheaper versions.

The Sams photofact says there is an Admiral-made
changer there.

Here is the Sams photofact electronics
service file face page published in 1964.

[electra225]

Now that I look at that again, I think you are right. I don't see another knob that should be there for a VM changer. Old age, I reckon. Good eyes, Mr. Mogul.......

The one I worked on had a VM changer. Maybe it wasn't original? Or maybe they used different changers for different years/models? That looks like what I remember of the chassis. I remember it being a middling performer, nothing that great.

[William]

Welcome, 45066OH. I'm guessing the 45066OH means you live in Ohio? If so, we are neighbors as I live in Michigan. As to the value, the other comments are correct, the value is strictly in what someone is willing to pay for it. The good thing, it's a mid-century-modern cabinet which is the most desirable cabinet style out there right now. The electronics are entry level, but that does not mean it won't sound good once repaired. I wish you the best and if you wish to tackle the repairs yourself you have come to the right place. I wish you the best in your decision.

Bill

[45066OH]

Thanks for all the input from everyone. Is this the right document to identify/troubleshoot what may be going on with the speaker that is inoperable.

Is this the correct document to troubleshoot the issue with the speaker?
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/pt9iqcsr ... r8kzm&dl=0

Thanks.

[William]

Yes, it is, and for you to have an original factory schematic is amazing. Where on earth did you get it? Since you have the schematic, I assume you will be working on this yourself? Will this be your first time working on vintage electronics? If so, feel free to ask as many questions as you need, and we will do our best to walk you through it.

Bill

[maxidyne]

This stereo is a bit different from the one I worked on. Maybe a bit later model. I don't remember seeing a 45B5 tube. The one I worked on used 50HK6 output tubes. First audio tube was a 12AX7. The rest looks much the same.

Start with the basics and get a baseline of performance. Function switches are known to cause a dead channel. Good luck.....

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

Thanks for all the input from everyone.
Is this the correct document to troubleshoot the issue with the speaker?

Thanks.

In addition to cleaning the function selector and balance
control switch(es) that Greg mentioned,

another thing I would do is to check that
both the Right and Left stereo channels are
functional.

Can you post some photos of the cables going to the
stereo inputs of the record changer (underneath it)
from the amplifier chassis ?

They might be regular RCA cables and jacks, or they
may be connected on a terminal strip.
Photos will tell us.

If we determine stereo signals are good going to the
record changer, then the next thing would be to suspect
that the stereo cartridge in the tonearm is faulty.

Or the wiring could have come off one of the R/L
channels of the stereo cartridge.

[electra225]

Or half of that 20EZ7 can be dead. The filament is still good, or the entire set would be dead. That tube is used as a vertical oscillator/vertical output tube in Japanese TV sets. After some preliminary visual inspections, time to dig out the old meter and take some voltage measurements. Test the tubes, particularly in the audio section. If there is enough wire, you can swap speaker wires to see if the issue goes to the other channel.

[45066OH]

Bill,

I'm not sure where I got the document. Using my skills as a former 16-year Army Intelligence Analyst, I scoured the internet looking for any documents pertaining to the record cabinet. I don't know the first thing about testing old electronics in the cabinet. I have soldered capacitors to a circuit board, that's about it.

[William]

Hey, you are ahead of some starting out in this hobby, you have soldered before so that is a good start. As mentioned with others here on the forum, start with the basics. Look for simple things like wires that are no longer connected, dirty function switches, or other controls that might be dirty. A couple of photos of your Admiral with the back off would really help us to see things as you ask questions. The more you share, the better we can help. Please keep posting, and we will help guide you through your first electronic adventure. You CAN do this.

Bill

[hermitcrab]

Welcome to the forum , the 45B5 tubes are good for 5 watts a channel.. your model says 12" woofers and 3.5 tweeters , when coupled to high efficiency speakers it may actually sound pretty good. Once you get access to the download section please upload that schematic to the downloads ..

[TC Chris]

That's a handsome device, and at this point it's a survivor deserving attention.

As others have suggested, start with the simplest efforts. If a function switch is bad or a volume or balance control is dirty, sometimes you can get some action by rotating the control back and forth multiple times. And as other have said, check plugs on cables that carry audio (typically on a device like this, the leads from the tone arm). You can also gently wiggle tubes in their sockets. Sometimes a tube pin or socket gets oxidized.

Also, is the problem present on multiple inputs (phono, AM, FM)? If yes, then it is downstream from there. If it is only present on phono but not on radio inputs, then it's somewhere in the phono components.

If none of these things work, you could do a tube test by exchanging the two output tubes in their sockets. If the problem migrates from one channel to the other when you do that, you've identified the problem.

All of these things are easy and free.

Chris Campbell

[45066OH]

-The End

I ended up selling it for $350.00 to someone who will appreciate it more than I will.

Thanks for everyone's information and interest.  

[William]

You are welcome, but please do not make it the end. I'm positive there is a console out there with your name on it. And you did very well, $350.00 for a vintage console is good money.

Bill