We took the Buick for a spin this morning

[electra225]

The first time it had been started since in January. Life got in the way of running the Buick like I'd like to. The choke has a mind of its own, so I always pull the air cleaner to be sure it sets properly. If the choke doesn't close completely, it will NEVER start. The choke set properly this morning, so I gave it about a half dozen revolutions with the starter and off she went. No rattly lifters, either. Synthetic oil seems to have cured that. I believe it still runs as well as it ever did. We were going to put gas in it, but the gauge showed full. I added stabilizer to be on the safe side. It is only 89 here this morning, cloudy and trying to rain. It was a nice morning to take a Buick with no AC on a drive in an Arizona summer. We drove probably 25 miles or so. I'm hoping the price of gas doesn't scare people from having car shows this fall. You don't see old cars out on weekends like normal anymore.

[William]

It's good to know the ole' girl started and ran well. That is a very nice car you have there and someday I hope to get a ride in it. Every once in a while, I have noticed a vintage vehicle running around but not like usual. I have also notice less weekend traffic on the main road that leads into Hart and Silver Lake off the expressway. I'm guessing the gas prices on both.

Bill

[electra225]

I promised myself I would drive it at least once a month in the summer. It doesn't get crabby about the heat, never did. I don't run the AC, though. It has AC and it has been rebuilt. Art didn't charge the air conditioning systems because the added heat from running the air will discolor engine paint. So, I've never charged this system. I run both windows down and enjoy the fresh air like in the good old days. I like listening to the Dynaflow whine as it does its job. The power steering hisses when you turn a corner. The brake linings squeak against the backing plates when you apply the brakes. And the door hinges clunk when you open those doors that weigh 400 pounds apiece. Good old Buick noises.

Next time I'm down there, I'm going to ask Garrett's if they would like a '63 Buick in their showroom when the 2023's come out. They mentioned that when I got the new battery. I need to follow up. Hard to imagine that Buick is almost 60 years old. When it was new, a 60 year old Buick would have been built in 1903.

[William]

I'm glad you enjoyed your drive today. Just think, your Buick is in the same age group as the electronics in our hobby.

Bill

[TC Chris]

On the way home from work on Th., I passed a 1960 Plymouth convertible, top down. Looked very cool and completely stable with those wonderful big fins. My Chevy's stablemate was Mom's '60 Plymouth Fury wagon, 318 2-bbl., Torqueflite. My Chevy and its new top sit indoors--too hot lately for convertible cruising.

Going through Grandma's stuff today I found a 1964 newspaper with an ad for the Buick Lesabre. Separate rear seat heat controls; did not know that.

Chris Campbell

[electra225]

There is a metal plenum that runs the full length of the transmission tunnel on Buicks, starting in the late 1950's. There is a flap in the heater system that vents heat down the rear seat plenum. IT actually works pretty well. A rear seat heater has been a feature on Buick since the 1940's, maybe earlier. On the older cars, there was a little heater core and a blade fan that put heat to the rear seat. It was located under the front passenger's seat. They are typically found inoperative due to the wire getting smashed in two under the floor mat. They didn't run the wire to the rear seat heater blower in any kind of conduit. On the air conditioned jobs, starting at least by 1963, maybe earlier, the rear seat heat plenum would also deliver cool air conditioned air to the rear seat. I don't know if Olds had this feature or not. I'm sure Cadillac did, but I don't know that. Perhaps our resident Cadillac expert would be good enough to fill in the blanks in this regard......

[TC Chris]

On the '38 Buicks, at least the Special, heaters were very optional. And the defroster. Mine has both options (hey, it's a Michigan car). The heater core and fan are on the firewall and just stir up the interior air (no fresh air intake).

Chris Campbell

[William]

If there is any interest, I know of a 1936 Buick coupe that is for sale here in Michigan?

Bill

[Firedome]

I've wondered if full synthetic would be good for a flat tappet V8, do you add Zinc? I've heard way too many horror stories about newer low-to-no Zinc oils in vintage cars, it's all over the web. I use Brad Penn ('the green oil") Racing 10w30 with high amounts of zinc in the '69 Rocket 350. Once in a (fairly rare) while one tappet will make some noise for a minute or 2 but goes away once it warms up, so now I don't set the choke until I've cranked it for about 30 seconds (like Greg's it needs that choke set), and as soon as I set it it lights off more quietly, so far, but it bugs me. Should I try Marvel Mystery or something else? I've heard tell that synthetic isn't good during break-in, but you hear a lot of things. A lot of hard-core vintage car guys seem to swear by Brad Penn (it's the old Kendall in Bradford Pennsylvania), including Porsche nuts, who are even more fanatical about oil than the Ferrari nuts. It's a bit hard to get and pricey but nothing's too good for the old car!

[TC Chris]

The guy who rebuilt my Chevy's engine said to use Valvoline Racing Oil because it has zinc added.

Chris Campbell

[electra225]

I dont get too excited about zinc in the oil on the Buick. When I rebuilt the engine, we talked about oil. I ran it for 5000 miles on Shell Rotella, then switched to Mobil 1. I will never put enough miles on it to worry about the cam. The input I have received from Buick owners, including straight 8, has been positive.

Let's review the other things that were supposed to kill old car engines. Remember the hubbub when they did away with lead in the gas? That would make the valves burn and burn holes in pistons. It was later discovered that if the engine was run hard on unleaded fuel, valve seat recession was more rapid that with leaded gasoline. Hardened valve seats, sodium-filled valves and three-angle valve jobs took care of the problem. It was also found that the older engines actually ran better and cleaner on unleaded fuel. Spark plugs, exhaust system parts, even engine oil all lasted longer running unleaded fuel. Then they took the R-12 out of the AC systems. That was supposed to kill all the old R-12 systems. Slightly lower charges and controlling the compressor rather than the freon was the answer there. Halogen lights, radial tires, gas shocks, synthetic bushings, lots of changes that went into production cars was found to work well on older cars. Now we have synthetic oil coming into prominence. I'd say that if you are going to run conventional "dino" oil, then, maybe if the engine is run hard, the loss of zinc might be an issue. But with synthetic oil and its vastly superior lubricity, I really don't think the loss of zinc in engine oil run on flat tappets will be an issue. Again, if the engine is run hard for lots of miles, then maybe. But the way we baby our old cars, we won't live long enough or drive enough to see the loss of zinc being an issue on camshaft and lifter wear.

I know a man here in the Valley that has a 1917 Buick. He recently changed it over to Mobil 1. IT has never been apart, totally original engine parts. He says it leaks a little more than it did, but it doesn't have valve covers, and the valve train is exposed. So it leaks and throws a lot of oil in any case.

You can throw a bucket of synthetic oil on a bonfire, and all it will do is smoke a little. When the bonfire is out, there will be an oily spot where you tossed the oil. There is a guy back home who heats his auto repair shop with used oil. He has started mixing the used oil with old stale gasoline so the synthetic oil will burn.

My recommendation is that if an older engine like ours is rebuilt, it would be best to use conventional oil during break-in. Chrome rings will never seat using synthetic oil. Cast rings, maybe, but best not to chance it. Non-detergent oil would actually be even better. Then switch to synthetic oil after about 5000 miles when oil consumption has been verified. The jury is out using Mobil 1 in my old Buick. I've run about 800 miles so far. All good at this point.

[Firedome]

I'll probably continue t use the Brad Penn ongoing as the zinc can't hurt and I doubt I'll put 10k on it in my lifetime. I've read that it was Crane or Isky cam who advisednthat rebuilders use the oils with high ZDDP as they were getting large numbers of new cam failures shortly after rebuilds, but who knowhow hard those engines were run. I use only hi-octane no-ethanol gas and the zinc oil and won't worry about it, I don't drive hard.

Here in Colorado gas with 85% ethanol's available.