New guy with a couple finds.

[1922VV111]

So I’ve been a collector of vintage audio and gear for about 17 years now (sadly I’m not technically skilled with electronics) but I still pick up things if they look interesting. I was at a swap meet and I spotted and picked up a couple interesting items.

First being a 1942 model Zenith radio 7s633. Guessing the last few models before switching to wartime production. Has AM and 2 Shortwave bands…

Second being a small floor model Philco 49-1605 AM/FM/Phono combo usually these are a dime a dozen but when I saw the turntable, I knew I had to get this one!

Now I have been aware in some 1949 model Radio/phono combos some had dual tonearms Zenith, GE, and Philco early when vinyl LPs were introduced but before 45rpm records were, a system where there were two separate tonearms for 78 and 33rpm discs. So due to that unique detail during that small window of time before 3 speed changers (which I assume appeared in 1950) I had to purchase this Philco! (And someone mentioned about turning the cabinet into a bar so I couldn’t let that happen now can we?)

(I’m in the middle of cleaning it up so I apologize for the only shot of the turntable portion.)

I also got one of those Iconic Panasonic 8-track players where you hit the top to change tracks, it’s probably the first thing when people think of what an 8-track player looks like (along with that Weltron 2001 which I am still searching for)

[TC Chris]

Just looked at a schematic... that Philco has no RF amplifier but it has 3 IF stages, which is unusual.

Chris Campbell

[1922VV111]

I have cleaned up my Philco 49-1605 a bit more using Goop hand cleaner and 0000 Steel wool and spraying it with Orange Glo. I also have some Kramer's Antique Improver (if anyone's familiar with that) The plastic? piece the holds down the record while stacked on the changer seems to have warped over the years and came off when I moved it around. I am also missing a spring shock absorber for the turntable so it sits a little off too. It's a decently light floor model that even I can pick it up enough to move it easily from room to room.
Basically it's pretty much a tabletop but in a larger case. But it's a nice one. Can't believe this was made the same decade as their Beam Of Light consoles with acetate cutters which I'm very interested in finding.

I also have this Admiral table top. Apparently a phono was inside the case at one point but it's long gone leaving the chassis to the radio visible. Maybe some other modifications done?

[William]

My grand parents had a similar Philco but theirs only played 78's. Same cabinet and it played and sounded good.

Bill

[TC Chris]

Interesting Admiral.... What's that wooden structure atop the tuning capacitor? Just a cover, or part of the FM tuning system? Zenith used inductive tuning for quite a while--sliding ferrite slugs in coils. Is that what's used here? Is there a model no.?

Chris Campbell

[1922VV111]

Interesting Admiral.... What's that wooden structure atop the tuning capacitor? Just a cover, or part of the FM tuning system? Zenith used inductive tuning for quite a while--sliding ferrite slugs in coils. Is that what's used here? Is there a model no.?

Chris Campbell

I’ll have to check. I assume some modifications were done after the turntable was removed. I have another Admiral tabletop a Bakelite cased one that still works great. They must have used a ceramic cart instead of the usual crystal carts of 78rpm turntables of the 40s.

I assume the carts in the philco are crystal and I’ll have to send them to Gary Stork or whomever to get them rebuilt.

[1922VV111]

My grand parents had a similar Philco but theirs only played 78's. Same cabinet and it played and sounded good.

Bill

Yeah, I was very happy to find something with this dual tonearm set up and not see it replaced by some BSR turntable from the 70s that looks out of place. Seems like many original 78rpm turntables were dumped in these 40s radios. Even my 1946 Magnavox Belvedere console had its original Webster Chicago 78rpm changer replaced by a 3 speed changer circa 1950. Thankfully it’s also a Webster Chicago changer and doesn’t look out of place since it was done when 3 speed changers had just came out. Funnily enough they didn’t add the extra FM tuner which was optional in these Maggies.

[TC Chris]

I've got a ca. 1951 Magnavox with what seems to be a rare Webster-Chicago 3-speed changer. I never see pix of ones like it:

It does not use a pusher platform. The speed changer is chrome and fairly tall, although you cannot tell from the angle of the camera. Reject is via the small black button on top of the speed selector. The small chrome lever is to select for 7" or other sizes. The stylus selection is by rolling the gold selector on the arm forward or aft. (The original cart was black). It has a 4-pole motor. They must not have used these very long.

Chris Campbell

[1922VV111]

I plugged in the Zenith radio since that one had its power cord replaced fairly recently. No dice. They put on a cord and changed nothing else. No stations just hum. Typical. I know that doesn’t stop many here but me who has never soldered a capacitor in his life has been halted. But this is why I joined here. To get some information finally though my thick skull and translate all the technical jargon that gets me lost, so I get an inkling on what is done!

[electra225]

DO NOT TURN THE ZENITH RADIO ON UNTIL WORK HAS BEEN DONE TO MAKE SURE IT'S SAFE. If you have a shorted filter capacitor, that can damage the power transformer beyond practical repair. You don't want to do that. Zenith is notorious for their wimpy power transformers under the best of conditions. First step is to post a picture so we can see what you have. Then we'll figure out how to get a schematic you can use. THEN we can talk you thru the first step of repair.

A good, practical rule, particularly while you are learning, is to never plug an electronic device to power until you are sure it's safe to do so. Not only can you damage the equipment, you can cause a fire. Or get yourself electrically shocked. If you have a multimeter, there are simple tests you can make to give you an idea whether it's safe to power up or not. The hum in your Zenith radio is quite likely caused by leaky or shorted filter capacitors.

[1922VV111]

DO NOT TURN THE ZENITH RADIO ON UNTIL WORK HAS BEEN DONE TO MAKE SURE IT'S SAFE. If you have a shorted filter capacitor, that can damage the power transformer beyond practical repair. You don't want to do that. Zenith is notorious for their wimpy power transformers under the best of conditions. First step is to post a picture so we can see what you have. Then we'll figure out how to get a schematic you can use. THEN we can talk you thru the first step of repair.

A good, practical rule, particularly while you are learning, is to never plug an electronic device to power until you are sure it's safe to do so. Not only can you damage the equipment, you can cause a fire. Or get yourself electrically shocked. If you have a multimeter, there are simple tests you can make to give you an idea whether it's safe to power up or not. The hum in your Zenith radio is quite likely caused by leaky or shorted filter capacitors.

Well, when I spotted that brand new looking chord I assumed other things were also replaced and it was safe enough to plug in... Usually if the cord is obviously cracked and brittle or I spot on a spliced on cord I leave those alone. (common sense)

[electra225]

When you are dealing with a device that uses a power transformer, particularly a Zenith, it is vital that the power supply be in top-notch condition before you power it up. Looking at components tells you little about their actual electrical condition. Directed tests are necessary to determine if components are safe to use. I didn't mean for my reply to sound abrupt. It is important that safety procedures are followed to keep people safe and to prevent collateral damage.

[1922VV111]

When you are dealing with a device that uses a power transformer, particularly a Zenith, it is vital that the power supply be in top-notch condition before you power it up. Looking at components tells you little about their actual electrical condition. Directed tests are necessary to determine if components are safe to use. I didn't mean for my reply to sound abrupt. It is important that safety procedures are followed to keep people safe and to prevent collateral damage.

Don't worry, I'm the most paranoid when it comes to getting zapped. Unfortunately that anxiety is why I have yet to replace a capacitor or power chord.

[TC Chris]

I agree with the warning about bad filter and coupling caps damaging things, but it's important not to scare people so badly that they give up. It's not rocket science. For filter caps, you must match or exceed voltage ratings and capacitance,and get the polarity right.

Coupling caps? No polarity issue. I found a guitar amp at curbside; 6V6 tubes were red-plating. Coupling caps were leaky.

I found a very cool Sansui 1000A tube receiver at curbside (see one here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/306265160792?c ... VngQAvD_Bw)

It had new tubes, including the pricey 7591 outputs. One of those new 7591s was burned up. Sansui had used fancy oil caps, good for sound but not long-lived. I replaced 'em all.

Chris Campbell

[1922VV111]

I agree with the warning about bad filter and coupling caps damaging things, but it's important not to scare people so badly that they give up. It's not rocket science. For filter caps, you must match or exceed voltage ratings and capacitance,and get the polarity right.

Coupling caps? No polarity issue. I found a guitar amp at curbside; 6V6 tubes were red-plating. Coupling caps were leaky.

I found a very cool Sansui 1000A tube receiver at curbside (see one here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/306265160792?c ... VngQAvD_Bw)

It had new tubes, including the pricey 7591 outputs. One of those new 7591s was burned up. Sansui had used fancy oil caps, good for sound but not long-lived. I replaced 'em all.

Chris Campbell

I know SOME things about caps, like I can use a cap that's above the voltage value of the original but I can't use a cap that's under the voltage value of the original. And that some caps that say .5UF can be replaced by .47UF caps, same if it says .2uf can be replaced with a .22uf cap. But that's about as much as I sorta know lol.