SK111W-FMA restore

[stbasil]

Now that I've got this thing in my garage (after 4 + hours of driving through pretty countryside), I'll start cleaning. The cabinet will take a lot of work on ripped veneer and stripped screw holes in the hinged top, but it's going to be fun! The tubes are all original Moto, too. Not applying power till I do some recapping, although I already know that it has been powered up recently. Here it is without its legs. Fortunately, the grill cloth is in good shape!

The first of many questions: unit is missing the 45 adapter, the seller is going to look through his stash to see if he has one, or the original. I know that VM sells these, but I need to give the seller the height dimension so he can see if he has it. What is the model number of the changer for this unit? Also, what stylus should I order since it's missing, here's a pic of the cartridge. Assuming it will be a flipover LP/78.

[electra225]

The changer looks like a version of the VM 1200 series. I can't tell whether it has a short spindle or a long spindle. There is a sticker on the bottom of the changer that gives the exact model number. Good luck with your project and thanks for sharing it with us.....

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

1. The stereo cartridge is a Sonotone 9-T, a very good
ceramic cart.

https://thevoiceofmusic.com/popup_pics. ... E=Sonotone 9T series

Use a soft artist brush to gently clean the dirt/dust off
of the cartridge underside.

2. The stylus replacement is a Pfanstiehl 808.
They come with lots of combination styli.

https://thevoiceofmusic.com/catalog/par ... ategories=

3. The changer is a 1234 to 1265 style.

The standard V-M 4 inch tall 45 adapter should work.

There will be an ink stamped changer model code
under the changer base.

https://thevoiceofmusic.com/do_i_have_vm.html#record

[stbasil]

Thanks, Mogul! It's a 1245, made 32nd week 1962.

[Brettzky99]

Congrats. It Would be a good idea to add some padding or a furniture Dolly between the base and the garage floor or to re apply the legs. That rectangular apron it's currently resting on is not designed to support the weight of the entire cabinet.

You can probably count the electrolytic caps on 1 hand but they are a pain to get to. No paper caps, up to you if you want to replace ceramic caps in the audio signal path.

Tubes are probably fine. Check all resistors coming off the 12AX7''s

If that 9T cartridge is shot I would ask Gary if one of the cobramatic kits with the tetrad will fit this tone arm.

I Clean the wood with naphtha and the metal with simple green

[Brettzky99]

You can try a new needle on the 9T

If you're doing a full restoration I would install one of these and call it a day.

https://thevoiceofmusic.com/catalog/par ... th%20Cobra

To my ear that tetrad sounds more detailed than any vintage Sonotone or pfansteil replacement cartridge.

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

If that 9T cartridge is shot I would ask Gary if one of the cobramatic kits with the tetrad will fit this tone arm.

No need for a kit, the mount holes are standard 1/2 inch wide.

A Pfanstiehl P-226/228 should fit and you wouldn't have to
mess with re-wiring for the Tetrad.

[Brettzky99]

If that 9T cartridge is shot I would ask Gary if one of the cobramatic kits with the tetrad will fit this tone arm.

No need for a kit, the mount holes are standard 1/2 inch wide.

A Pfanstiehl P-226/228 should fit and you wouldn't have to
mess with re-wiring for the Tetrad.

You are correct. I think my ears just prefer the sound of the tetrad to the P228. More bass and better mid range in my opinion. Records sound more detailed, to me, on the tetrad. But I have a few consoles w/the P228's too.

[William]

Interesting, I never knew that cartridge existed as Gary always suggested the P226/228. I wonder if my half deaf ears could tell the difference.

Bill

[stbasil]

About to start on the electronics, but I have noticed that one of the 6V6's is dead, inside is white and glass loose in base. So I'll eventually need at least one. I see several guys selling used, tested tubes on eBay, ie, Antique Radio Salvage (20190), any thoughts about those sources? Hopefully having a matched pair is not necessary.

Also, does anyone have service docs for the SK111? It would be nice to have a schematic specific to this unit.

[TC Chris]

Matched tubes are not necessary. Two good ones will make it work. Later, if you're seeking incremental improvement in audio, you can see how closely your pair matches, and buy matched ones if needed.

Chris Campbell

[electra225]

I was not a fan of matched tubes until I did a component=by-component restoration of my Imperial. Now I'm more of a believer. Matched tubes sure made a difference in how it sounds. Are they necessary in every case? I'm not so sure about that. But at least I don't totally poo-poo the idea anymore. If you were to ask really nice, I'll bet I could come up with a pair of 6V6's that are used but still good if they would help you.

[stbasil]

Thanks for the offer, Electra225 (my mother had a '66 Electra 225, fun driving for this teenager, but I digress), however, right now I'm going to focus on just getting this guy to make decent sounds. With my shot hearing, I probably couldn't detect differences in tubes or cartridges! And thanks for the other advice, everyone.

[stbasil]

One of my first tasks was to fix the smashed up vibrasonic assembly: broken mounting tabs on the transducers, disconnected suspension springs (but, fortunately all present and accounted for!), and totally rotted foam mounts. After fixing everything up and cleaning the inside of that portion of the cabinet, I dutifully reconnected the wiring exactly as originally found. But, then I noticed that the tweeter was just floating out there in electric-land, someone had scrambled the wiring at some point!

Smashed reverb unit

Fixed reverb unit, note wrong tweeter wiring

Corrected speaker wiring

Hopefully the Vibrasonic will prove to be functional after I have finished with the rest of the electronics.....

Other issues noted so far: missing 45 adapter, broken 6V6GT. But, I've yet to start on the electronics--plan to take on the amp in a day or two. Figure I'll start with the easiest one!

[William]

Looks like you are off to a good start and tackling the little stuff is a good idea. Keep up the good work.

Bill

[electra225]

If I read the codes on that tweeter right, the EIA code is 145, Cinaudagraph Corporation, Chicago, Illinois, built the 32nd week of 1962, consistant with the codes on the changer. I believe we have discussed this manufacturer for Motorola speakers in the past.

[stbasil]

This is a great project with lots of stuff to feed my ADHD tendencies! When I want a break from one issue, I can just put it aside and work on another one! So far:

1. Cabinet lid hinges reattached/adjusted after repair of stripped-out and mangled lid mounting on one side. Will have to repair veneer at that location later. Cabinet will require lots of veneer repair.

hinge attach.jpg (27.9 KiB) Viewed 25210 times

2. Changer removed and cleaned up cosmetically. Will do a mechanical service next, since it has several issues there.
Chrome is pitted and has rust spots in some places, especially the tone arm. Any advice on how to make that look better without damaging the finish? Brasso, maybe?

changer.jpg (28.2 KiB) Viewed 25210 times

3. Amp removed, checked all resistance readings against table in Sam's service manual, all readings fairly close or dead on, so that's a good sign, right? Awaiting replacement caps and 6V6 (apparently cracked inside base, open filament, no vacuum). All other filaments OK. I don't have a tube tester or a Variac, but will power up via dim bulb tester and wattmeter when it's ready!

amp.jpg (32.87 KiB) Viewed 25210 times

4. Speaker crossover caps (5uf) test OK with my crude cap meter that's in my DMM, I think I'll leave those alone for now since those are not easily available.

Any and all advice welcomed!

[electra225]

If the surface that you want to polish is chrome, use 0000 steel wool and almost any polish you want to use. I like Simichrome, but it can be hard to find. Only use the steel wool if you are sure the surface is chrome. Steel wool is good on chrome, but will damage stainless steel or aluminum. You can use steel wool and Rain-X to make glass sparkle. Good luck with your project!

[stbasil]

Turns out tone arm is aluminum! See copy attached, and is definitely not magnetic. So spots are not rust, but pitting and staining under whatever coating was originally applied. So I gotta figure out how to clean that up without destroying the shiny finish.

1963 Motorola Catalog -1.jpg (146.97 KiB) Viewed 25182 times

I really like that some versions of this changer had a finger lift on the tone arm, as shown in the attachment, I'll probably add one, maybe this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0D167CG ... 39K6&psc=1
or something I fabricate myself that is more like the OEM version.

Tested power transformer by applying 5VAC to primary, and all secondaries deliver the correct proportional voltages, so I feel pretty good that it's okay and won't flame out after recapping!

[Brettzky99]

I've had good luck using this car wax and a paper towel on that tonearm

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Meguiar-s-Megu ... 1003004124