1960 Westinghouse H60ACS1 Stereo
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1960 Westinghouse H60ACS1 Stereo
This is the Westinghouse little console the buyer of the
Magnavox New Horizon also wants serviced.
The Westinghouse is coming over Friday, when the customer
will leave it, and take the Magnavox New Horizon home.
The cabinet finish is almost perfect.
The amp uses two 6CU5 output tubes,
and a 12AX7.
There is a transformer to supply only the tube heater voltage, and the
rest of the circuit uses a selenium rectifier for B+ generation.
Total of only 7 caps including the filter caps, and looks like
plenty of room to work under the chassis, hooray !
Record changer as you can see is a Collaro.
I think it's the Challenger or Custom, from when I looked
at a photo of its cam gear.
Magnavox New Horizon also wants serviced.
The Westinghouse is coming over Friday, when the customer
will leave it, and take the Magnavox New Horizon home.
The cabinet finish is almost perfect.
The amp uses two 6CU5 output tubes,
and a 12AX7.
There is a transformer to supply only the tube heater voltage, and the
rest of the circuit uses a selenium rectifier for B+ generation.
Total of only 7 caps including the filter caps, and looks like
plenty of room to work under the chassis, hooray !
Record changer as you can see is a Collaro.
I think it's the Challenger or Custom, from when I looked
at a photo of its cam gear.
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- electra225
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Re: 1960 Westinghouse H60ACS1 Stereo
It's cute! My wife would cabbage onto that if I brought it home
It has an unusual circuit, don't believe I've seen that before. I reckon running the tube filaments thru a transformer controls AC hum. It uses 6-volt tubes, so there is that. RCA made a model where they ran series string filaments thru a 1:1 ratio PT in an effort to isolate the chassis to control hum. What cartridge is it using?


It has an unusual circuit, don't believe I've seen that before. I reckon running the tube filaments thru a transformer controls AC hum. It uses 6-volt tubes, so there is that. RCA made a model where they ran series string filaments thru a 1:1 ratio PT in an effort to isolate the chassis to control hum. What cartridge is it using?
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Re: 1960 Westinghouse H60ACS1 Stereo
I was getting a headache trying to follow the output schematic--the tubes and OPTs. Usually when there are various jacks and additional terminals, as on that one, I'll print the schematic and use colored pencils to trace things and bypass the extra wiring paths. But my home printer died long ago.
The circuit looks like standard mono P-P circuit, then it has the extra transformer, plus the tubes are labelled L and R. i think in mono it is a standard P-P circuit but in stereo what happens?
Chris Campbell
The circuit looks like standard mono P-P circuit, then it has the extra transformer, plus the tubes are labelled L and R. i think in mono it is a standard P-P circuit but in stereo what happens?
Chris Campbell
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Re: 1960 Westinghouse H60ACS1 Stereo
This Beitman schematic is a bit easier to read.
I assume the center tap on T2 creates the same impedance
on one stereo speaker as would be on a stereo speaker connected
to T3 ?
I'm not sure if I worded that clearly. I don't have enough
understanding to see how the stereo signals are
separated coming from each output tube.
I restored an early 1950's Webcor coffee table hi-fi
that had the same set up with a power transformer
for the filaments.
It was very quiet.
I assume the center tap on T2 creates the same impedance
on one stereo speaker as would be on a stereo speaker connected
to T3 ?
I'm not sure if I worded that clearly. I don't have enough
understanding to see how the stereo signals are
separated coming from each output tube.
I restored an early 1950's Webcor coffee table hi-fi
that had the same set up with a power transformer
for the filaments.
It was very quiet.
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- electra225
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Re: 1960 Westinghouse H60ACS1 Stereo
Looking at the Sam's drawing, may I suggest that an easier way to describe what Chris mentioned is this. It is a full-stereo amp with a stereo/mono selection, typical of many early stereos. You could choose mono if you were listening to a mono record. In the early days of stereo, people thought this was a big deal. Later, they forgot the stereo/mono switch because people wanted to know they had a real stereo. Instead of dividing the channels for stereo with the stereo/mono switch, it combines the two stereo channels. I have a little Motorola stereo that has this feature. Its main function, for me at least, is when I get a stereo FM station that is a tad drifty. Switching to mono helps with that.
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Re: 1960 Westinghouse H60ACS1 Stereo
I was mostly puzzled by the output circuits. The two output tubes look like they are a simple P-P amp in mono--one center tapped OPT, one plate at each end. But in stereo a 2nd transformer gets added in, and each tube becomes a single-ended amp, and somehow the impedances come out right. I m sending the schematics to a printer so I can do some physical tracing to study it.
Most stereo amps do their mono switching in the preamp stages, ahead of the power amp. One of my gripes about my Denon integrated amp is that it does not have a mono switch, which allows for quieter playback of mono records using a stereo cartridge.
Chris Campbell
Most stereo amps do their mono switching in the preamp stages, ahead of the power amp. One of my gripes about my Denon integrated amp is that it does not have a mono switch, which allows for quieter playback of mono records using a stereo cartridge.
Chris Campbell
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Re: 1960 Westinghouse H60ACS1 Stereo
There are two transformers, The circuit is a bit unusual in that the stereo/mono switch connects the two channels in that lower transformer for mono. I'm not sure I 100% understand their thinking. The stereo switch on the Motorola I have comes in ahead of the first audio 12AX7 tube. It simply connects the two channels, making the input to the amp section mono. This setup is behind the amp and deserves a bit of study to understand. I'm still looking at it myself. "You can be sure if it's Westinghouse"...... 
Edit....This is a different setup, for sure. It appears to me that the stereo/mono switch shunts B+ thru a 75 ohm winding on that lower transformer in stereo, then you jumper the external speaker terminals for stereo. Goofy setup, and why? The amp appears to be full stereo until it gets to that stereo/mono switch setup. They show the speakers connected together, but, if you look really close, you'll see they drew the negatives connected and the positives are separate. I can make more sense of the Sams drawing myself, but neither one is the best I've seen.....

Edit....This is a different setup, for sure. It appears to me that the stereo/mono switch shunts B+ thru a 75 ohm winding on that lower transformer in stereo, then you jumper the external speaker terminals for stereo. Goofy setup, and why? The amp appears to be full stereo until it gets to that stereo/mono switch setup. They show the speakers connected together, but, if you look really close, you'll see they drew the negatives connected and the positives are separate. I can make more sense of the Sams drawing myself, but neither one is the best I've seen.....

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Re: 1960 Westinghouse H60ACS1 Stereo
Here is a nice response I received over at one of the ARF forums
from Tom, who is one of the sharp cookies.
Seems an even more interesting design now that
I understand it a bit more.
I've seen this circuit in a Columbia stereo, too, IIRC.
"It's called the "matrix" circuit, similar in principle to FM multiplex decoding.
L+R signal comes out of the push-pull transformer;
L-R comes out of the SE transformer.
Adding the two (secondaries in series, in and out of phase)
give L and R channels.
Produces more power (especially at low frequencies)
than two single-ended amplifiers using the same tubes."
from Tom, who is one of the sharp cookies.
Seems an even more interesting design now that
I understand it a bit more.
I've seen this circuit in a Columbia stereo, too, IIRC.
"It's called the "matrix" circuit, similar in principle to FM multiplex decoding.
L+R signal comes out of the push-pull transformer;
L-R comes out of the SE transformer.
Adding the two (secondaries in series, in and out of phase)
give L and R channels.
Produces more power (especially at low frequencies)
than two single-ended amplifiers using the same tubes."
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Re: 1960 Westinghouse H60ACS1 Stereo
I figured there was some phase trickery going on....
Chris Campbell
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Re: 1960 Westinghouse H60ACS1 Stereo
This is a very interesting thread, I have found some interesting designs in these early stereo phonograph consoles.
Often, this output/speaker switcheroo was done to make stereo consoles more configurable. To facilitate the use of one external speaker cabinet to enhance the stereo effect, then tying both cabinet speakers together like RCA does in the SHC models. Magnavox added rear cover screw connection to tie-in one external speaker to the same channel as one in the console, then allowed you to switch off the duplicate channel's speaker in the cabinet.
One Westinghouse model I have uses series-wired 7695s and another uses parallel-wired 6AQ5s, both with a center woofer, whose OPT connected across the B+ feeding right and left OPTs.
Yes, you CAN be sure! Good luck, you'll be amazed they DO sound good.
Often, this output/speaker switcheroo was done to make stereo consoles more configurable. To facilitate the use of one external speaker cabinet to enhance the stereo effect, then tying both cabinet speakers together like RCA does in the SHC models. Magnavox added rear cover screw connection to tie-in one external speaker to the same channel as one in the console, then allowed you to switch off the duplicate channel's speaker in the cabinet.
One Westinghouse model I have uses series-wired 7695s and another uses parallel-wired 6AQ5s, both with a center woofer, whose OPT connected across the B+ feeding right and left OPTs.
Yes, you CAN be sure! Good luck, you'll be amazed they DO sound good.
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Re: 1960 Westinghouse H60ACS1 Stereo
I ordered some e-lytics I need for the amp, so while waiting,
I started the dis-assembly of the Collaro Conquest changer.
Interesting to see a Collaro in this Westinghouse, and the changer
even has a Westinghouse badge on it.
The sub-plate assembly is almost the same as in the later
S600.
I removed the idler and drive wheels first.
Before I removed the motor, I had some worries.
When I tried to spin the rotor by hand, it felt very stuck.
I started by pulling the bottom motor bearing/lubrication
pad assembly.
Fortunately, it was not the top bearing sticking, but the bottom.
The bottom was very dry, but separated from the rotor
spindle w/o much effort.
On the Conquest, the speed changer form is cast
along with the upper part of the motor body.
I released a couple of linkages so I could get the motor
off w/o having to take off the moving parts of
the speed changer mech.
I freed the motor AC plug mount from the changer base.
This gives me more slack on the AC wiring, and no
wires have to be cut to do the cleaning and lube.
Then I removed the 3 short bolts holding the motor
assembly to the changer base.
Next I'll look at removing the sub-plate, but this is
good for today.
I started the dis-assembly of the Collaro Conquest changer.
Interesting to see a Collaro in this Westinghouse, and the changer
even has a Westinghouse badge on it.
The sub-plate assembly is almost the same as in the later
S600.
I removed the idler and drive wheels first.
Before I removed the motor, I had some worries.
When I tried to spin the rotor by hand, it felt very stuck.
I started by pulling the bottom motor bearing/lubrication
pad assembly.
Fortunately, it was not the top bearing sticking, but the bottom.
The bottom was very dry, but separated from the rotor
spindle w/o much effort.
On the Conquest, the speed changer form is cast
along with the upper part of the motor body.
I released a couple of linkages so I could get the motor
off w/o having to take off the moving parts of
the speed changer mech.
I freed the motor AC plug mount from the changer base.
This gives me more slack on the AC wiring, and no
wires have to be cut to do the cleaning and lube.
Then I removed the 3 short bolts holding the motor
assembly to the changer base.
Next I'll look at removing the sub-plate, but this is
good for today.
- Attachments
-
- Collaro Conquest 1960.JPG (430.27 KiB) Viewed 1827 times
-
- Collaro Conquest 1960-2.JPG (543.54 KiB) Viewed 1827 times
Hi-Fi-Mogul
- William
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Re: 1960 Westinghouse H60ACS1 Stereo
Looking good, Mr. Mogul. That looks like the same Conquest that is in my Columbia/Magnavox stereo, and it's the only Collaro that I have that works correctly.
Bill


Bill
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Re: 1960 Westinghouse H60ACS1 Stereo
I finished cleaning the speed control assembly,
after several hours of time on it.
Item 4400 (lift collar) was rigidily held on the spindle (4401)
by dried brown grease.
I carefully applied some heat, then alcohol, and it freed up.
I lubed up the bottom motor rotor bearing housing after
cleaning the rotor and bearing.
Good spin on the rotor by hand.
Tomorrow off comes the sub-plate for cleaning.
after several hours of time on it.
Item 4400 (lift collar) was rigidily held on the spindle (4401)
by dried brown grease.
I carefully applied some heat, then alcohol, and it freed up.
I lubed up the bottom motor rotor bearing housing after
cleaning the rotor and bearing.
Good spin on the rotor by hand.
Tomorrow off comes the sub-plate for cleaning.
Hi-Fi-Mogul
- William
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Re: 1960 Westinghouse H60ACS1 Stereo
You are shaming me into attempting to get the courage to work on my Collaro changers. Just the thought gives nightmares. They scare me!
Bill


Bill
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Re: 1960 Westinghouse H60ACS1 Stereo
I finished cleaning and re-assembly of the sub-plate and it is
installed along with the motor on the changer base.
I installed a good EV-26 stereo cart.
It has one common ground pin for both R/L
channels, so I jumpered the 2 grounds
together on the female RCA stereo jacks under
the changer.
I want to power up the motor, but I'm a bit
confused over which prongs in the molded power
connector to supply AC to.
Photos of it are posted earlier in this thread.
The 2 red leads off the motor are switched.
The yellow lead is in the middle of the molded
AC plug.
Can someone tell me if it matters which red
lead I attach AC to ?
I could find nothing in the several Collaro Conquest
manuals I have about the AC wiring on the motor.
installed along with the motor on the changer base.
I installed a good EV-26 stereo cart.
It has one common ground pin for both R/L
channels, so I jumpered the 2 grounds
together on the female RCA stereo jacks under
the changer.
I want to power up the motor, but I'm a bit
confused over which prongs in the molded power
connector to supply AC to.
Photos of it are posted earlier in this thread.
The 2 red leads off the motor are switched.
The yellow lead is in the middle of the molded
AC plug.
Can someone tell me if it matters which red
lead I attach AC to ?
I could find nothing in the several Collaro Conquest
manuals I have about the AC wiring on the motor.
Hi-Fi-Mogul
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Re: 1960 Westinghouse H60ACS1 Stereo
The answer is in the schematic I just realized.
I kept thinking I'd seen how that motor was wired...somewhere.
I kept thinking I'd seen how that motor was wired...somewhere.
Hi-Fi-Mogul
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Re: 1960 Westinghouse H60ACS1 Stereo
It sounds like you are coming along nicely with this project. Here's hoping that once done it will work perfectly.
Bill
Bill
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Re: 1960 Westinghouse H60ACS1 Stereo
Mr. Mogul, if you was to ever decide to take a nice vacation in sunny Arizona, I think I know where we could scare up a half dozen or so Collaro changers for you to go through, since you do such a nice job...... 

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Re: 1960 Westinghouse H60ACS1 Stereo
Thanks for the support, Bill.
Greg, I would absolutely be up for servicing your ladies,
(man in the old days that might be misconstrued, ha ha !!)
I did a power up test w/o the platter to see if the cycling mech
was functioning correctly.
All working well, except I had to adjust the tonearm lift height
so that it would touch the height of a record on the spindle.
Tomorrow I need to clean the top platter thrust washer,
clean the rubber rim again on the idler and drive wheels,
and place on the platter for a complete check out with an album.
The capacitors are here, so the amp will be next !!!
Greg, I would absolutely be up for servicing your ladies,
(man in the old days that might be misconstrued, ha ha !!)
I did a power up test w/o the platter to see if the cycling mech
was functioning correctly.
All working well, except I had to adjust the tonearm lift height
so that it would touch the height of a record on the spindle.
Tomorrow I need to clean the top platter thrust washer,
clean the rubber rim again on the idler and drive wheels,
and place on the platter for a complete check out with an album.
The capacitors are here, so the amp will be next !!!
Hi-Fi-Mogul
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Re: 1960 Westinghouse H60ACS1 Stereo
The tonearm tracking force has no graduated adjustment,
so I had to clip off one link at a time of the counter-balance
spring.
It's now at 6 grams, which is good for the EV-26.
I had to adjust the tonearm initial set-down position,
which is done via a screw access with the platter off.
I'm going to clip off the extra tonearm wire and nestle
the wires up into the tonearm body better.
The idler and drive wheels working well, and they are
the originals.
A few extra pics showing the grundge w/in the sub plate
and linkages.
so I had to clip off one link at a time of the counter-balance
spring.
It's now at 6 grams, which is good for the EV-26.
I had to adjust the tonearm initial set-down position,
which is done via a screw access with the platter off.
I'm going to clip off the extra tonearm wire and nestle
the wires up into the tonearm body better.
The idler and drive wheels working well, and they are
the originals.
A few extra pics showing the grundge w/in the sub plate
and linkages.
Hi-Fi-Mogul
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