Classic Hifi Care

I ran into a curious thing after receiving this Collaro
W620 Mircomatic changer from an AstroSonic console
to service.

The cycling mechanism, speed control, idler & drive
wheels are about 99% the same as in a bit older
600 series Micromatic.

But, this changer has the newer tonearm and window
dressing on the top of the changer base, that would
be found in a W801 Micromatic changer.

The W801 series is a single idler/drive wheel with
a different speed control mech, and a bit different
cycling mech.

What had me confused was how to remove the tonearm,
because that must be done to remove the cycling sub-plate
assembly.
There was no mention of how to do this in the W801 manual.

So, I got mad and just kept looking at this changer.
I finally see that it too, has 2 bolts to remove to free the
tonearm, like the 600 changer.

Due to the different design of the tonearm mounting,
the bolts are of different lengths, and appear to be
in differnet locations.

So, this changer has characteristics of 2 different
Micromatic changers.

I'll post some photos a bit later on.

Thanks for posting this Mr. Mogul. Collaro changers scare me. I have done light service work on the 456 and the 600 but never have I really taken one apart. I also get confused with the different series/models and what years they fall in. Photos of each, their models, and years they were used would be a great help to me. I have tried to figure that out but never really had success doing so. I look forward to your photos.

Bill

Jeez, I was hoping Bill would spend some time in AZ this winter and work on mine........

The F-200 Conquest changer in the Imperial is possessed. IT has a mind of its own. I believe the motor is seized in the CG, and I "fixed" it once before. I'm still scare of V-M changers, I have no business messing with a Collaro.....

I got into the changer today.
It turned out to be relatively easy to
remove the sub-plate after all.

The tonearm, though different from earlier ones,
was engineered so that one screw released it from
its mounting shaft.
It's also keyed, so you don't have
to worry about its position being off.

In some videos, you will have folks tell you to
remove the motor by cutting the AC wires and
after servicing the motor, to solder and shrink
wrap the wiring.

I've found this is unnecessary.
What I do is set up a stand (boxes), so that the
motor can rest on them, due to its relatively
short AC wiring from the switch.

The hardest part is getting the motor board
mount off of the mounting pegs on the changer
base.
The pegs are conical and really grip the rubber
motor mounts.
That's the only part I have to take it slow and
gradually pull off the bottom side of the motor
board lastly.

Now, I'm a bit worried about the motor.
After I had it on the boxes, I connected the AC
power to its proper wires.
The motor is making quite a racket when spinning.
From what I can tell, the upper bearings mount is
dry as can be.
I assume the bottom bearing housing is the same.

Does this sound reasonable ?
I'm of course going to clean the rotor shaft and
bearings, then give them plenty of turbine oil

Keep this motor in your thoughts and prayers !

Thanks, Mr. Mogul for sharing your service work and especially the photos. I now know what model my changer is that looks just like yours. Mine has no markings to identify what model it is. Believe me, I will remember your post and refer to it when and if my W620 needs service. I'm guessing once you have your motor all cleaned up and lubed your noise will be gone. One of my W600 changer motors was totally seized up and once I had it removed from the changer base, I took my time soaking things up and it eventually came apart. I cleaned, polished, and lubed and now it hums along in silence. I'm not sure why it did that as the rest of the changer worked just fine. I also had a VM motor that was froze too. After performing the same service to the VM as I did to the Collaro, it now operates in silence, or as quiet as a Alliance motor can. Good thoughts go your way for a successful rebuild.

Bill

I have always gotten confused by the similar looks of the late 600's and the 800's

Hurray !
I spent 1.5 hours cleaning the rotor, the bearing
bushings, and then lubed it up.

There was some real crud in those areas.

Motor now spins quiet like a top.

While the sub-plate is out, and motor off of
changer base, I'll start cleaning those On/Off/Rej
control linkgages.
Then on to the speed selector linkages.

I also found a excellent multi-part video series
on completely re-building a 600 Micromatic.
Quality filming and easy paced procedures,
with explanations along the way.

I'll post it on "Getting Started", once this gal is
back together.

Congrats, Mr. Mogul, nice work.

Bill

Ditto from me, Mr. Mogul. I compress the little retaining tabs on the wires in the motor power Molex connector, then remove the wires so I can work with the motor. I don't like cutting wires, either. For whatever reason, I have found that the upper bearings on Collaro motors are nearly always found dry or even seized.

All was right with the world...I thought.

After installing the sub-plate, motor, and
idler & drive wheels, the drive wheel worked
the cycling mech perfectly.

The dang platter was not turning.

After a short burst of irritation, I found
that the 2 AC wires on the motor were
touching the spring that pulls the idler
over to the motor spindle and platter.

Those wires are held close to the motor
by a clamp, and I was going to replace
them after testing.

I moved the wires, and BINGO !
The W620 running like a clock.

Man, everything DOES have to go back
just as it came off.

Idler & drive wheels to be sent to Gary
tomorrow at the V of Music.
I also am ordering a replacement type cart
that Gary offers to sub for the EV 275,
just in case.
The Maggie owner was happy to have a backup
cart ordered.

Mr. Mogul, you are the bravest individual I know. Taking a Collaro changer apart....

Great work, though. I certainly admire your ability.....

Received the new idler and drive wheels, styli,
and replacement P-191 cartridge, if needed.

Wheels installed, new stylus in, and tested with
a Doors "13" album.

The original Astatic 195 cartridge sounds great !

Cycling functions all A-OK.

Owner should pick it up this week.

Good job, Mr. Mogul. I'll send mine right out for you to overhaul.

Bill

William wrote: ↑Thu Dec 22, 2022 4:19 am Good job, Mr. Mogul. I'll send mine right out for you to overhaul. Bill

At your service, Bill !
We need to wait though, until this Blue Norther gets by, ha !

Then when you get done with Bill's, I have a couple you could look at and give them your magic touch....