Philco 46-1226 followed me home...

[1922VV111]

Found this guy at the local drive-in months swap. It was in good cosmetic condition and it plays 78s so I couldn't say no for $75. I know that price may be steep for something that hasn't been electronically restored yet but it's still better than paying $650 for something that doesn't even play 78s!! Obviously I will not plug this one in...

[William]

Yup, I think a new cord is the first thing that needs to be done.

[electra225]

That is one of Philco's better-performing models in the 1946-ish era. The downside to those instruments is the D-10 changer. 78-only, heavy tone arm, crystal cartridge, clunky. If you can find a four-speed stereo VM or BSR changer, those make a nice transplant for the D-10. Plus, you can play stereo records without damage. You would bridge the stereo cartridge for mono, but that is straightforward and easily done. The electronics aren't too difficult on those. You will want to change the filter caps after you replace the power cord, and before you power up. You may run into some rubber wiring in the chassis, so you will need to be on the lookout for that. Old rubber wiring will disintegrate when you touch it. Good luck!

[1922VV111]

That is one of Philco's better-performing models in the 1946-ish era. The downside to those instruments is the D-10 changer. 78-only, heavy tone arm, crystal cartridge, clunky. If you can find a four-speed stereo VM or BSR changer, those make a nice transplant for the D-10. Plus, you can play stereo records without damage. You would bridge the stereo cartridge for mono, but that is straightforward and easily done. The electronics aren't too difficult on those. You will want to change the filter caps after you replace the power cord, and before you power up. You may run into some rubber wiring in the chassis, so you will need to be on the lookout for that. Old rubber wiring will disintegrate when you touch it. Good luck!

Eh, I got many things to play the other speeds. And I know of Gary Stork's services with these crystal carts. I keep hearing about rubber wiring in Zeniths too. I know the 3 newer caps have to be twisted together for on the negative sides? Like I know about replacing caps since i've seen many YouTube videos on how it's done but never done myself. I need to get over my anxiety about messing up and getting zapped sometime. My head keeps making things 1000x harder than it should. Yay anxiety! its also the reason I don't drive too...If I don't drive I don't crash and die lol...

[1922VV111]

That is one of Philco's better-performing models in the 1946-ish era. The downside to those instruments is the D-10 changer. 78-only, heavy tone arm, crystal cartridge, clunky. If you can find a four-speed stereo VM or BSR changer, those make a nice transplant for the D-10. Plus, you can play stereo records without damage. You would bridge the stereo cartridge for mono, but that is straightforward and easily done. The electronics aren't too difficult on those. You will want to change the filter caps after you replace the power cord, and before you power up. You may run into some rubber wiring in the chassis, so you will need to be on the lookout for that. Old rubber wiring will disintegrate when you touch it. Good luck!

Eh, I got many things to play the other speeds. And I know of Gary Stork's services with these crystal carts. I keep hearing about rubber wiring in Zeniths too. I know the 3 newer caps have to be twisted together for on the negative sides? Like I know about replacing caps since i've seen many YouTube videos on how it's done but never done myself. I need to get over my anxiety about messing up and getting zapped sometime. My head keeps making things 1000x harder than it should. Yay anxiety! its also the reason I don't drive too...If I don't drive I don't crash and die lol...

Well since I can't edit my post, I just get overwhelmed when it comes to the idea having to repair something electronically myself. I'm not sure what brand of something I should get when it comes to tools or what tools I should be using to even do this kind of work etc, etc, just hearing the jargon just makes my head hurt! Like I literally get the Windows 98 Blue Screen Of Death in my head! I'm an enthusiast of this stuff but just a very non technical one!

[electra225]

If you look in the upper righthand corner of your post, you'll see a series of six orange boxes. The first orange box with the pencil in it is the edit button. You click on that button and your post will come up so you can edit it and make changes to it. More questions? Please ask, happy to help.......

You may only have five orange boxes. My Admin version has six.......

[1922VV111]

If you look in the upper righthand corner of your post, you'll see a series of six orange boxes. The first orange box with the pencil in it is the edit button. You click on that button and your post will come up so you can edit it and make changes to it. More questions? Please ask, happy to help.......

You may only have five orange boxes. My Admin version has six.......

But sometimes that pencil icon disappears when I leave my spot! Or if I edited my message too much. (even when I'm logged in) I'm trying to not be a bigger pain in the butt than I already am!

[1922VV111]

I bought one of these capacitor kits from Ebay. Are these the right ones? Know the .47uf ones are supposed to replace the .5uf ones and .22uf ones replace the .2uf ones? I may not be a smart man, but I know how to round numbers! It's ok if the voltages are higher than the original but they cannot be lower...correct?

[TC Chris]

OK on higher voltages.

I've always wondered why people get so distressed about disintegrating rubber insulation. Jut check and make sure it's not contacting anything it shouldn't. Most of the wires are solid-wire, not stranded, so they are self-supporting. I really tight places, go ahead and replace if necessary.

Chris Campbell

[1922VV111]

OK on higher voltages.

I've always wondered why people get so distressed about disintegrating rubber insulation. Jut check and make sure it's not contacting anything it shouldn't. Most of the wires are solid-wire, not stranded, so they are self-supporting. I really tight places, go ahead and replace if necessary.

Chris Campbell

So a cap that says "100v" I can stick in a "250v" one and we're good, not a say "50v" one? Ok. I've also seen some of those yellow type caps with the leads at each end, I'll probably need to go buy those too?

[TC Chris]

The new replacement can have a higher voltage rating but not a lower. Some contend that the disparity should not be too great. Generally, don't worry.

The thing to worry about is maintaining correct polarity.

Chris Campbell