Console Model 853

[CJ7]

Nice to see folks keeping these alive!

We have a Model 853 console that my folks bought new. Been around as long as I remember (I'm 59). It's sat unused for many years and I'd like to get it going again. The record changer seems to be inop but the turntable functions and and needle is intact. Amp model 2005, Tuner is 1432 (have the original manual). I haven't removed the turntable to grab the specific model. Powers on provides some static/hums when adjusting the various knobs. Tuner glass is broken. Mainly focused on getting the phono kicking out some sound. This was mainly used around Christmas time hence the renewed interest.

I'll start with a good cleaning of all the connections. Lots of electrical knowledge in the family so I think we can fix it but looking here if there are any tips/tricks or maybe known history on these?

Thanks!

[electra225]

Welcome to the forums!! If you would please post your location in your user profile that would be great. I think we have a member who has that model. Good luck with your project..

[CJ7]

Posted to profile. Western, NC. Thanks for the quick response. Getting it taken apart and cleaning up now. I'll post back anything that might be helpful. Just need to get rid of some 1960ish+ dust and cobwebs...

[William]

Welcome, CJ7, we are glad you are here but there is still one more thing for you to do. Please add an Avatar, and once that is done and you post a third time you will be a full member with everything the forum has to offer.

Does CJ7 mean you are a Jeep guy? I am a VM guy, I have way too many toys with a lot of them being VM. As you will learn reading through the forum, the saying "there is always room for one more", or "one must learn to stack" applies to most of us.

We love photos, we like to see what our fellow members have in their collections, and the photos help us to see what you might need help with. I am guessing your VM 853 has a single ended 6BQ5 amp and a later design VM 1200 series changer. Does yours have a tuner? Again, photos will help us to determine how to help you. A full restoration of both the electronics and the changer is in order if you desire your VM to perform like new for years to come.

Again, welcome aboard, enjoy the forum and post often.

Bill

[TC Chris]

V-M tended to be a bit higher quality than most consumer brands, and besides, they were a Michigan company, which pleases Michiganians like me (but I was born in NC).

Record changer rehab usually involves disassembly, removal of petrified grease, and lubing with oil and light grease. You may hear terrifying stories about complexity, but in my experience, it's just a matter of being careful and analytical as you go. Now that digital photography lets us rake instant pix of everything, you can document the disassembly process so you don't forget how things go back together--which washers, spacers, and clips go on that stud, etc.

Bear in mind that the pickup cartridge, which had the stylus ("needle") and the generating element inside, can be non-functioning even if there's an intact needle. Ones that have wires attached via slide-on clips can have oxidation issues, solved by sliding the little clips back & forth and perhaps applying contact cleaner.

Speaking of contact cleaner, many of the woes of old electronic devices stem from selector switches. You can get an idea by rotating or sliding the switch and seeing if you hear any intermittent sound. Sometimes just operating the switch a few times can solve the problem.

Chris Campbell

[CJ7]

I am a CJ guy. 1979 CJ7, drove it into the garage years ago to start a rehab and then the job and life took me all over. Guess, it may be a restore rather than rehab at this point but looking forward to it! Turn your monitor upside down.. I didn't rotate the pics.

[Conelrad]

And don't use WD-40 on any switches, pots, or bearings. It is NOT a cleaner or lubricant, rather a water displacer.

Proper real oil and Caig DeOxit should be on your bench.

D

[William]

That is the changer I thought you would have, so just a new version of the original 1200 series. It will be a 12...

The 5 knob control panel is pretty typical for that era of VM and probably has a tube or two. The amp is located on the floor of the unit. You have something I have never seen before, rather rare I think. Your tuner has shortwave, 3 bands of it plus AM. Most VM's of that era (1962) are just AM-FM as short wave was kind of a thing of the past. I am going to reach out to Gary to see what I can learn. Speaking of Gary, he is located in Detroit and is all things VM. He is the guy that bought out VM when VM went out of business so he is your source for VM parts.

https://www.thevoiceofmusic.com/modfind_consoles.html

Please, when you get around to it, take the back off and shoot some photos of the amp, control panel, tuner, and speakers. And, as Chris stated, a VM changer is pretty easy to work on just take a bunch of photos as you take things apart and you will be good. I do recommend that you send a request to Gary asking for the service manual for your changer and his service recommendations on where to apply the lubricants once you have everything cleaned up. I also recommend you order motor mounts, as long as you are in there you might as well replace them. It is possible you will need the drive tire, idler, as they get hard with age so they will slip during cycling and will hear them rumble while records are playing.

Keep us posted and we will do all we can to give you a helping hand.

Bill

[TC Chris]

Wow, I missed those SW bands--that really is rare on devices of this vintage.

And because it's rare, it will be hard to replace a broken dial glass. My thinking is that the answer is "crazy glue." Edge glue it carefully. And them maybe have a same-size piece of glass cut at a local hardware store or glass shop. Back up the original with it for strength.

SW broadcasting is limited these days--various jack-leg preachers, Cuba, US time signals, and a few rock stations. It can be fun to tune around occasionally and be surprised. Some hams broadcast without SSB so you can hear them without a BFO. I wish that BBC and the Netherlands national system were still broadcasting; they always had interesting programming.

Chris Campbell

[electra225]

Chris's suggestion for fixing the broken dial glass is good. You can also make a decal of the dial, then transfer that to a new piece of glass. You have both pieces fairly intact, so that should be no problem.

Until about a year or so ago, you couldn't get me to mess with a changer. For some reason one day I decided to dig into one. I still have my challenges, but also have my share of victories. Do yourself a favor, at least until you have enough experience so you can "cheat". Get a rebuilt drive tire and new motor mounts, don't try to shortcut the procedure. Before you order parts, make sure the cartridge is good. Make sure you get everything you need in one order to save on shipping. Gary at VM Enthusiasts is the man when it comes to record player parts.

[CJ7]

Thanks for all the support and ideas. Very helpful. The glass broke (rather cleanly) into 3 pieces. Definitely will give a try on piecing those back together. Reached out, and already have a response from Gary with a request for some more info to get me on the right path with manuals. The original tuner manual was in the back on the unit. Amp has a label intact, haven't removed the turntable yet. Will tackle that last or find someone who is familiar. I'll grab a few pictures along the way. Thanks again for the input and quick responses.

Nice to know it's in the rare pile. Dad was an electronic whiz, avid Ham operator, maybe that's why this one caught his eye years ago.

[electra225]

Reading the comments in this topic again, I might offer my caution using Super Glue or its ilk. The stuff sometimes does not dry clear. And, there are certain materials it just won't stick to, Tolex comes to mind. I would recommend Elmer's glue, the clear kind. Their white glue dries clear, but with a glass break, the light may catch the broken part of the glass and make it look yellow. Don't use construction glue. Done carefully, the breaks may not be visible without really close inspection.

[William]

Actually, ask Gary if the glass is available from him, stranger things...

My guess was correct, single ended amp with either 6BQ5's or 6AQ5's. Either will sound great and give you plenty of power. Are the woofers 10" or 12"? In that era, it could be either one.

Another interesting thing with your unit is the amp and controls are together. Most of the VM's that I am familiar with the controls and amp are separate. I do have a modular unit where they are together but the design is different than yours.

Bill

[TC Chris]

Just from what we can see, I'm guessing that the AM (inc. SW) performance will be better than FM. I can see a 3-gang tuning capacitor, meaning that it has a tuned RF amp, but it's not clear what's in the FM section. There's an old saying that a mediocre FM tuner with a good antenna will outperform a good tuner with a poor antenna. That has been my experience.

Nobody has mentioned it yet, and maybe you know, but step #1 for any transformer-powered device is replacing the filter capacitors, which with age can short out and take the expensive power transformer with it.

Chris Campbell

[CJ7]

We'll start looking at the obvious things in the coming days but good note, thanks. Gary has asked me to pull the turntable to get at the model number. I see two screws on top and some "capture" catches on the bottom, while the table is set on springs. Before I pull the turntable, is it as simple as removing these screws? Don't want to pull it and a couple springs go flying when "I should have done xxx.." beforehand.

Haven't cleaned up yet. The woofers measure 10".

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

Gary has asked me to pull the turntable to get at the model number.

I see two screws on top and some "capture" catches on the bottom,
while the table is set on springs.

Before I pull the turntable, is it as simple as removing these screws?

1. Please also post the record changer model # here.
We probably have the manual for it.

2. Do not remove the shipping bolts from the changer.
After you unplug the power cord to the changer's motor,
and RCA audio cables, the changer should lift out.

Both shipping bolt retainers should be in the vertical position as
shown in your photo.

[CJ7]

That was easier than I was thinking..lol. The label appears to be deteriorated but maybe one of you can tell just by the layout? The model number?

[Hi-Fi-Mogul]

Your V-M changer is from the 123x, 124x,125x,126x family

in Sams Photofact 646-10.

I'll place it in the uploads in a day or so.

There are cosmetic differences and a speed selector
control difference, but the cycling mechanism is the same
in all.

[CJ7]

Did some cleaning of connectors and tested it again, it works! Still some cleaning to do (volume pot needs a good cleaning) and we'll get the changer working.
(Was going to upload a quick clip of some old Christmas Tunes on the console, but no .mov uploads allowed) It'll be a Merry one with some old vinyl and memories.
Thanks to all here who have responded and to Gary over at VM! I'll update later and/or check back in when it's time to tackle the changer.