Chassis Power Supply for RCA Victrola Stereo Console VGT 26W

[neanderthal]

Chassis Power Supply for RCA Victrola Stereo Console VGT 26W
I think I may have to replace the chassis power supply on my stereo console. Everything was working nicely but suddenly went dark. I tested the resistance across the power plug and saw infinite resistance. The fuse is not blown and shows 1.7 ohm. Maybe lost the primary winding on the transformer? Further testing suggestions?
Wondering if I can get a replacement whole power supply or maybe just the transformer, if that seems to be the solution. The numbers I see on the power supply are RK314B, RVA274 and 65252. The transformer is stamped with 1461174-2 8316511.
Would appreciate practical suggestions on my options.
Thanks.

[electra225]

Welcome to the forum! The first thing I would suggest is that you obtain the schematic for your stereo. The schematic is the road map for the electricity that is flowing through the chassis. This will allow you to check at each point in the power supply to find the fault. There are several areas where you can be losing power. The power cord, a switch, a function switch, the switch on the changer, a fuse, a resistor, the transformer itself and any connections associated with this circuit. I'd suggest you obtain a bit more evidence before you condemn something like the power transformer. Good luck!

[neanderthal]

I have the SAM's PhotoFacts that covers this console stereo. I pulled the chassis power supply for testing. I found the primary winding wires on the transformer (black and red/black) and the ohm meter showed continuity. The fuse was also good, but was a little loose in the snap fitting. I worked that a little in case there was some oxidation affecting it. I reinstalled the power supply and reconnected all the wiring snap connectors to it. I turned the stereo on and it worked again. You were right, it must have been a loose connection or a switch. When it cut out initially, it had been playing music for a while and had warmed up completely. After reinstalling the power supply, I let it play through an entire album to see if it would cut out again after it warmed up long enough. It stayed on without a problem. Crossing my fingers that it keeps working.
Thanks

[electra225]

Sometimes the cadmium plating on the chassis will migrate to connections. On the connections you checked, if you put some PB Blaster or similar on a small brush, then brush that material onto the connections such as the fuse, and other obvious connections that will eliminate contamination or slight corrosion. Then you can use contact cleaner on the switches and controls to eliminate them from being "electrically dirty". Sounds like you did well!

[Motorola minion]

I scrapped a VLT-51, which probably has the same PS chassis. If your transformer primary is open, this is your best option.
Send me a PM if you need one.