I see it on the RCA console section.

Thanks for that information, Bill.

The changer is a Collaro "Custom" L,K,M 600 type,
and I've done several of those.

1. The RCA jack is factory soldered onto Pins 1 & 2 of the phono input plug as you see in the schematic. 2. The record changer has an RCA male end cord wired to the cartridge tonearm wiring. That cord goes into the female jack soldered onto Pins 1 & 2. See the photo I posted earlier of the a...

I got amp chassis and control chassis photos for you Greg.

Tube lineup in the amp is :

Top left: 12AX7

Bottom left to right: 35L6GT, 35L6GT, 35Z5GT

Hi all, I had a potential customer call and send me these photos of this cute gal. I think she's late 1950's era. Any help on her identification would be great. And the amp chassis it might contain. I won't have time to go see it for several weeks, due to my learning curve of motor-boating trouble-s...

Hello and Welcome Warren !

We look forward to your advice and projects
as they come along.

I am still learning a LOT of basic electronics here,
but it's very rewarding to apply it.

Thanks for joining.

Greg,

The reistance chart indicates to measure resistances
from tube socket pin to common neg.

Is common neg going to be B- in this circuit ?

Also, my house VAC is 123 volts.

Will that greatly affect my readings ?

Thanks !

Is this your set ?

https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/belmont_s ... 387_3.html

That is super information, Greg. 1. Yes, the motorboating increases with Vol, and the Tone control affects the squeal frequencies. 2. I'm going to make a trouble shooting document and put in all the advice you gave. And record all the readings. I'm actually looking at this positively, and hope to le...

1. No, I did not power up the amp before re-cap. Now I wish I had, as you said it would indicate if problem was original or appeared after re-cap. 2. I'll ground the 12AX7 grid. Do I ground it to chassis or B- ? 3. I'll look at the resistance chart on the schematic as you suggest. More questions com...

hermitcrab wrote: ↑Tue Sep 24, 2024 8:57 pm this changer has 2 washers and the bearing... yet the record sits low enough to rub on the corner speed control? .... check this out and no the record is not warped

How about a complete photo of the changer topside ?

With records off the platter.

I found that one end of the wire's shield IS connected to a B- node in the chassis. That corresponds to the schematic diagram. From a Sams image, the other end of that shield at Volume control is not connected to anything. Another photo I took before the re-cap also shows that the shield was not exp...

Tonight I powered up the amplifier. Turning the Volume control up a bit, there was squelching (feedback?) and with a little more volume, kind of a motorboating sound. I reviewed the schematic against the wiring in the volume control circuit. The shielded B- wire connected to the 12AX7 grid was no wh...

Bill,
That still sounds like an idler wheel not having
enough grab.

Earlier, I suggested trying another one, if you have a
V-M changer w/same idler.

I've gotten over the years, a few idlers that had
to be returned.

You are correct, there is no extra spring.

Spring action is supplied by the design of the
"trip lever clutch" 81, and the "trip lever" 82.

Tonight I got the e-lytic caps in. It took a lot longer than anticipated. I had to closely measure the lengths of wire that would be soldered onto the capacitor leads, so that it all would fit into the old can. Due to the original cap wires positions under the chassis, I could not push any extra wir...

Bill,
Do you have another 1200 idler you can swap out ?

Bill,
What model V-M is it ?

Is the inner rim of the platter and rubber of
the idler wheel very clean ?

Have you taken motor apart, cleaned bearings,
rotor, and lubed with turbine oil ?

Greg,
I'll pay attention to the grid V when I check the
voltages when the amp is done.

What effect up/down on the grid voltage would
the emissions cause ?

Replaced the 6 wax/paper caps in the chassis and Tone/Vol control unit. I was able to straighten the electrolytic cap can mounting lugs, so I could release the can from the chassis. I cut the 4 wires off the can, then I cut the the old capacitor can open and removed the old cap guts easily this time...